Kunjin
Wahgi Valley
The Cup: Malt, nutty, and coffee cherry flavors with mellow acidity and sweetness.
Process | Washed |
---|---|
Variety | Arusha, Bourbon, Typica |
Elevation | 1400-1900 MASL |
Country | Papua New Guinea |
Harvest | May-September |
Let’s dive into the world of Papua New Guinea’s Kunjin coffee from the Wahgi Valley, exploring its details, history, and the intricate journey from harvest to cup.
Coffee Details
Kunjin coffee hails from the Wahgi Valley in Papua New Guinea’s Western Highlands, a region renowned for producing some of the country’s finest coffees. The flavor profile is distinctive: expect malt, nutty notes, and hints of coffee cherry, balanced by mellow acidity and a subtle sweetness. This complexity makes Kunjin a favorite among specialty coffee enthusiasts.
Process: Washed
The washed process contributes to its clean and bright profile. After harvesting, the coffee cherries are pulped to remove the outer skin, fermented for 12–36 hours to break down the mucilage, and then washed with clean water. The beans are then dried, typically on raised beds or patios, for 7–12 days until they reach optimal moisture content (around 10–12%). This method enhances the coffee’s clarity and highlights its nuanced flavors.
Varieties: Arusha, Bourbon, Typica
These heirloom varieties are well-suited to Papua New Guinea’s high-altitude terroir.
Arusha: originally from Tanzania, brings floral and fruity notes.
Bourbon: adds sweetness and body.
Typica: contributes delicate acidity and complexity. Together, they create a harmonious cup.
Elevation: 1400–1900 meters above sea level (MASL)
The high elevation slows cherry ripening, allowing beans to develop dense, sugar-rich profiles. The cool nights and warm days in the Wahgi Valley further enhance flavor complexity.
Harvest: May–September
This period aligns with the dry season, ideal for picking ripe cherries and drying beans without excessive moisture, which could lead to defects.
Region: Wahgi Valley, Papua New Guinea
The Wahgi Valley’s fertile volcanic soils, ample rainfall (around 1800–2000 mm annually), and consistent temperatures (15–25°C) create a near-perfect microclimate for coffee. The valley’s rugged terrain also means most coffee is grown on smallholder plots, adding to the region’s unique story.
History and Story
Papua New Guinea’s coffee industry began in the 1920s when Australian colonizers introduced Typica seeds from Jamaica’s Blue Mountain region. The Wahgi Valley, with its ideal conditions, became a hub for coffee by the 1950s. Kunjin coffee, named after a local tribal area near Mount Hagen, emerged as a standout due to its quality and the care taken by smallholder farmers.
Unlike large plantations common in other coffee-growing nations, Papua New Guinea’s coffee is predominantly produced by smallholder farmers—often families managing less than 2 hectares (about 5 acres). In the Wahgi Valley, an estimated 70–80% of coffee comes from these “garden” plots, where coffee trees are intercropped with subsistence crops like sweet potatoes, bananas, or taro. This system supports local livelihoods but also poses challenges for consistency, as processing methods can vary.
The Kunjin name is tied to a specific washing station or cooperative effort in the valley, where cherries from multiple smallholders are processed together. Historically, centralized wet mills, introduced in the 1960s, transformed quality by enabling the washed process, which became a hallmark of PNG’s specialty coffees. Organizations like the Coffee Industry Corporation (CIC), established in 1991, have further supported farmers with training and infrastructure, elevating Kunjin’s reputation globally.
Harvesting and Processing in Papua New Guinea
The journey of Kunjin coffee from tree to cup is labor-intensive, shaped by tradition and the region’s geography:
Harvesting
During the May–September season, farmers hand-pick ripe cherries, often making multiple passes through their plots to ensure only red, mature cherries are selected. This selective picking is critical for quality, as underripe or overripe cherries can muddy the cup’s flavors. Families, including children during school breaks, often work together, carrying baskets through steep, misty hillsides. A typical smallholder might harvest 500–2000 kg of cherries annually, yielding 100–400 kg of green coffee.
Processing (Washed)
Pulping: Cherries are brought to a wet mill, often within hours of picking to prevent fermentation. Small hand-cranked or motorized pulpers remove the outer skin, leaving the parchment-covered beans coated in mucilage.
Fermentation: The beans are fermented in tanks (often concrete or plastic) for 12–36 hours, depending on temperature and altitude. This step breaks down the sticky mucilage, and farmers monitor it closely to avoid over-fermentation, which can impart off-flavors.
Washing: Clean spring water, abundant in the highlands, is used to wash away the mucilage. This step can involve multiple rinses, channeling water through troughs to separate lighter, defective beans (floaters) from denser ones.
Drying: The parchment coffee is spread on raised beds, tarps, or patios to dry under the sun. Farmers turn the beans regularly to ensure even drying, which takes 7–12 days. Inconsistent weather can be a challenge, so some mills use mesh-covered beds to protect against sudden rains. Once dried to 10–12% moisture, the parchment is stored briefly before hulling.
Hulling and Sorting
The dried parchment is hulled to reveal the green coffee beans, often at a dry mill in Mount Hagen or Goroka. Beans are sorted by size, density,
and quality—either by hand or machine—to meet export standards (e.g., Grade A or AA for Kunjin). Women often play a key role in hand-sorting, removing defects to ensure consistency.
Export Preparation
Beans are bagged in 60-kg jute sacks, labeled with the Kunjin designation, and shipped from Lae or Port Moresby to roasters worldwide. The supply chain can be complex, involving cooperatives, exporters, and intermediaries, which sometimes reduces traceability but ensures smallholders reach global markets.
Challenges and Culture
Producing Kunjin coffee isn’t without hurdles. Infrastructure—like roads and electricity—remains limited, making transport costly. Access to finance restricts investment in equipment, and climate variability can affect yields. Yet, coffee is a cultural cornerstone in the Wahgi Valley, often called “mother’s crop” because women manage much of the harvesting and processing. Tribal traditions, like singsings (ceremonial dances), sometimes mark the harvest’s start, blending coffee with community identity.
Why Kunjin Stands Out
Kunjin’s malt, nutty, and coffee cherry flavors reflect its terroir and meticulous processing. The washed method preserves the bean’s clarity, while the high-altitude varieties add depth. Compared to other PNG coffees, like those from Simbu or Eastern Highlands, Kunjin often has a softer acidity and richer body, making it versatile for espresso or pour-over.